Pappa al pomodoro: a traditional Tuscan “cucina povera” recipe

Pappa al pomodoro is part of Tuscany’s traditional cucina povera (“peasant cooking”). This simple yet flavorful dish is basically made with tomatoes and stale bread. The result is a rustic but flavorful tomato porridge, usually enhanced with basil, garlic, and extra virgin olive oil.

This recipe serves 2.

This dish originated in Tuscany as a clever way to use up stale bread. It can be served hot or cold and is sometimes prepared with broth, making it more like a tomato soup, though its name literally refers to a “pap” or “mash.” The bread is soaked and softened with broth or water, then cooked with tomatoes until it becomes a comforting, spoon dish with a thick, creamy consistency.

Method:

Peel the garlic cloves, remove the central germ, finely chop, and place in a pot with cold extra virgin olive oil. Warm gently over medium heat. Once the garlic starts to sizzle (“dance” in the oil), add the crushed tomatoes. Lightly salt, tear in some fresh basil leaves, and cook over medium heat for a few minutes.

Cut the bread into small cubes and add it to the pot. Splash in a little water to help it hydrate. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the bread and tomato form a thick, spoonable porridge.

If desired, stir in some pieces of mozzarella during the last two minutes of cooking, just until fully melted.

Adjust seasoning, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, garnish with fresh basil, and serve with grated Parmesan if desired.

Tips and tricks:

1. Traditionally, pappa al pomodoro is made with just the basic ingredients, but you can enrich it with ricotta, mozzarella, or Parmesan to taste.
2. Salt carefully: in Tuscany, this dish is often seasoned more generously because it’s made with pane sciocco (“plain bread”), a saltless bread that has been baked this way for centuries due to historic salt taxes in Florence.
3. For a smoother texture, you can use only the bread crumb (without the crust).
4. Depending on the season, use passata, canned crushed tomatoes, or fresh ripe tomatoes. If using fresh tomatoes, peel them first for best results.