Milanese risotto recipe (saffron risotto)

Milanese risotto (risotto alla milanese) is one of the most emblematic dishes of Lombard cuisine. It is also known as “saffron risotto” (risotto allo zafferano) due to this key ingredient, or also “yellow risotto” (risotto giallo), thanks to the unequivocal golden color that saffron gives to the rice.

The preparation of Milanese risotto does not differ greatly from other Italian rice dishes. However, it is worth observing some details of this traditional recipe, as well as the correct use of saffron. This spice gives the dish an intense yellow color and subtle aroma. It is by the way the most expensive spice in the world, although a few threads and/or a small amount of powder will be enough.

Milanese risotto recipe:

Hydrate the saffron threads in a little hot water.

Heat a little butter and/or extra virgin olive oil in a saucepan. Chop the onion finely and sauté it over moderate heat until it is tender and becomes transparent, but without burning. Add the rice and seal it for approximately two minutes, until the grains look translucent.

Pour the white wine and cook over high heat until the alcohol evaporates.

Reduce the heat, and begin to add the hot broth little by little, until the amount of rice is barely covered. Stir lightly to allow the rice to release the starch. Repeat this procedure as the broth is consumed, so that the rice is always covered.

Halfway through cooking, add a little saffron powder and the liquid in which we have hydrated the threads, which we will reserve for using them later.

The rice will be ready after approximately 16-18 minutes of cooking. The exact time will always be indicated by the manufacturer on the package.

Then proceed to the ”mantecatura”: add the grated cheese and some small pieces of butter, both completely cold. Mix until integrated. Adjust salt if necessary. Serve and decorate with the saffron threads that we had reserved before.

Tips and tricks:

1. Round grain rice is used, since it has a high capacity to absorb the flavor of the broth, and because its starch content is ideal for giving creaminess to the final consistency. The most used type is Carnaroli, but in case it’s not available, use Santa Andrea or Baldo.
2. The broth is always prepared in advance and should be added hot to the preparation, never cold as it would stop the cooking.
3. Try to salt the broth just right. The risotto can be adjusted for salt after cooking, but ideally it should take the amount of salt from the broth that the rice absorbs.
4. The saffron threads are previously hydrated, not only to extract the maximum aroma and flavor, but also to keep them whole, which allows us to finish the dish with a more attractive touch. To prepare the risotto I have used a very small amount of powder, which is added halfway through cooking along with the liquid of the strands, and I have finally added these as decoration to the dish.
5. If we are going to use onion, we should chop it as finely as possible, so that each piece is approximately the size of a grain of rice. This way the onion will amalgamate with the rice after being sautéed, giving the impression to have “disappeared”.
6. Using white wine gives the recipe certain acidic notes, which can be very interesting. It is up to each person to decide if we want to give this new layer of flavor to the risotto. In any case, always remember to use a wine that is not of poor quality.
7. Butter is a symbol of Lombard cuisine, since unlike other Italian regions, the North didn’t much availability of extra virgin olive oil. Of course, depending on our preference, we can use one or the other interchangeably, or a mixture of both.
8. The last step of every good risotto is the so-called “mantecatura”. There is no proper translation for this term, but it’s essential in Italian kitchen, specially when talking about risottos. It describes the action of giving creaminess to the preparation, by adding butter and grated cheese, and then integrate them into the risotto until they dissolve. Both ingredients must always be very cold, so it is recommended to keep them in the refrigerator until used.
9. If you need to reduce the calories of the dish a little, you can “mantecare” the risotto with just the grated cheese. The fat molecules will emulsify with the starch, and give the desired creamy consistency, although for some purists the result may be somewhat drier than expected.
10. Milanese risotto can be served as a first course, although it is generally considered the obligatory accompaniment to Milanese ossobuco (ossobuco alla milanese), another iconic dish of Lombard cuisine.
11. Such is the intimate relationship of this risotto with ossobuco, that the bone marrow is often used in this recipe, either to fry the rice, or for the “mantecatura”.