Polish bigos or “hunter’s stew” is probably the most iconic traditional dish from Poland. In fact, the recipe is mentioned in the national epic poem “Pan Tadeusz” (Mr. Thaddeus) by the poet Adam Mickiewicz. It is basically a winter stew made with sauerkraut (fermented cabbage) and different cuts of game meat, pork or beef, as well as smoked sausage, which gives it a characteristic flavor and aroma.
Like any traditional dish, there are countless ways to prepare bigos. But also, it varies from region to region and consequently, according to the available ingredients. The recipe itself is simple and only requires a little care and patience. Before getting into it, let’s review and explain how to choose and use the ingredients, so that you can adapt it to your convenience and possibilities:
Cabbage:
The base of a good Polish bigos is the kapusta kiszona, that is, sauerkraut or fermented cabbage. Some recipes also add a part of fresh cabbage, but sauerkraut is always present. It is important to strain the liquid from the ferment, which is very bitter and acidic for the bigos (but by the way, it is very healthy to drink).
Meat:
The second pillar of Polish bigos is game meat (venison, wild boar, etc.), pork and/or beef. In older times, it was sought to get a very satiating dish which would provide a lot of energy for the whole day. That is why the cuts with the highest fat content would predominate. But even so, you can choose those that are leaner if you prefer (without going to the extreme of using a pork loin, or similar, which would be a kind of waste in this case!).
Cold cuts:
The second type of meat that this recipe always has is some cold cuts such as sausage, bacon, etc. Even if you don’t get a real kiełbasa or Polish sausage, it is vital that some of these ingredients are smoked. This detail provides an unmistakable and characteristic flavor to the recipe.
The proportion of cabbage and meat is to taste, but it is usually around 50-50 (considering both fresh cuts and sausages as meat).
Dried mushrooms:
Wild forest mushrooms are another must. Use any available type, hydrating them from the day before or at least for a few hours in a jar with hot water. In this process, the water will turn dark and absorb a very intense flavor. It’s pure gold to be used in the stew! Discard only the bottom, where different sediments are normally concentrated.
Dried plums:
Dried plums or śliwki suszone are a very popular ingredient in Polish cuisine. Also in this recipe they will provide their characteristic touch, especially giving a sweet note that contrasts wonderfully with the acidity of the sauerkraut.
Spices:
This recipe may eventually not need added salt, since both the sauerkraut and the sausages or smoked cuts already provide enough. It is usually seasoned with pepper, allspice, paprika, bay leaf or other usual spices in Poland such as cumin, caraway, marjoram and especially juniper seeds, which give a typical forest touch.
Other Ingredients:
Bigos usually includes a stir-fry of onion and sometimes, some fresh tomato or tomato paste. You can also add meat broth or a glass of red wine while cooking.
My Polish bigos recipe
In two separate pots, hydrate both the mushrooms and the dried plums with boiling water for at least one hour.
Cut the meat into bite-sized pieces. Heat a little extra virgin olive oil, butter or smalec (lard) in a pot and seal the meat. Optionally, add a chopped onion and season with bay leaf, peppercorns, allspice, thyme and juniper. If some bones are available, add them in this moment. Cover the ingredients with water, bring to a boil and skim any impurities that appear on the surface. Cover and cook over low heat for an hour.
After that, add the strained sauerkraut together with the rest of the spices, the plums, the mushrooms, and the liquid in which both dry ingredients were hydrated. Add also the sausages cut in chunks. Cover and continue cooking over very low heat for at least another hour, or until the meat is very tender and the bones come off easily.