Pizza! From the classical Margherita up to any of its infinite variants, it for sure (may be together with pasta) the ultimate icon of the vast Italian gastronomy. For its correct preparation, there are numerous concepts about which Italians discuss in an almost scientific way, and which we will try to summarize for those who want to bake a good Italian pizza at home.
Some important concepts about Italian pizza:
- Hydration: the first concept subject to debate is the hydration of the dough, that is, what percentage of liquid is used per 100 grams of flour. This depends on each Pizza Master (called “Pizzaiolo”) and there is no fixed rule, but we can say that in general the value ranges approximately between 60 and 80%. I think beginners should opt for an intermediate value of 70% and then experiment. The first value results in a dough that is easy to handle but a little dry, while in the second case, the dough will be very viscous and more difficult to handle.
- Digestibility: a word that always appears when you want to evaluate the quality of a pizza, and is associated with the lightness of the baked dough. Greater digestibility comes from the leavening, fermentation, and maturation processes.
- Leavening and fermentation: when talking about baking, many times we talk about leavening or fermentation interchangeably. But although these concepts are closely linked, they are not synonymous. Leavening (or proofing) refers to the growth of the dough during a resting time. During this process, the gluten present in the flour traps the carbon dioxide “bubbles” that are produced during fermentation. Since pizza is prepared almost exclusively with wheat flour, which has a high gluten content, the discourse is usually simplified, equating both concepts. But let’s keep in mind that other flours which have less or no amount of gluten may rise poorly or not rise at all, but they will still ferment if certain time and temperature conditions are met. In pizza or bread, these processes depend on the amount of yeast (fresh or dry) used per kg of flour. Normally, for a rapid fermentation, 7 g of dry yeast (equivalent to 21 g of fresh yeast) are used for 500 g of flour. This is the usual indication for preparing homemade bread. However, it is considered that a good pizza dough requires a fermentation of at least 8 hours, which can extend up to 48 or sometimes even longer. The more we extend the action time of the yeast, the more we can reduce the amount used. In extensive fermentation processes, the dough is kept in the refrigerator.
- Maturation: this is the natural process through which particles of the dough are degraded, which helps make it more digestible. Maturation occurs more slowly than fermentation, and that is why it is desirable to reduce the amount of yeast, thus reducing the time gap between these two important processes.
Regional Italian pizzas:
Neapolitan pizza has the particularity of being very thin and with high edges. Form a circle with the dough and flatten it with your hands from the center to the edges, to obtain the famous tall and spongy cornicione. Roman pizza, on the other hand, is flat throughout and can be kneaded with a bread rolling pin.
A calzone is a stuffed pizza that uses the flat dough of the Roman pizza that is folded on itself after adding the ingredients to one of its halves.
Genoese focaccia, not exactly a pizza, is also a very popular bread. Its dough is regular and usually higher, and it does not have tomato sauce. It is always generously seasoned with extra virgin olive oil and salt, and may also include other ingredients such as green olives, onion, halved cherry tomatoes, etc.
About the traditional ingredients of Italian pizza:
Tomato: it is not necessary to cook the sauce beforehand, but we must always drain the tomatoes. Otherwise, excess moisture can affect the pizza dough and its cooking. Preferably use San Marzano or a similar type tomatoes, although in general we can obtain a good result with almost any type of tomato (as long as they are ripe and not excessively firm). We can use canned or fresh tomatoes; In the second case, peel them and remove the central part along with the seeds (which are more bitter).
Mozzarella: The original Margherita pizza uses buffalo mozzarella, although it is not always easy to find and it’s also more expensive. That’s why cow’s milk cheese is popularly used almost exclusively. Try to buy a good quality cheese that is not excessively moist; Or, try to drain as much liquid as possible before putting it on the pizza.
Basil: this third ingredient is the last of the triad of a Margherita pizza, complementing the colors of the Italian flag. It is generally recommended to add some leaves when taking the pizza out of the oven, so that the heat does not “kill” its properties. However, it is common to cut some leaves by hand and put them under the mozzarella, to give an additional flavor to the pizza.
Although they are not mandatory, the pizza is almost always seasoned with a little dried oregano and extra virgin olive oil before baking.
Finally, and to give an additional touch of flavor, grate a little Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese on top of the mozzarella.
If we are going to use vegetables for a vegetarian pizza, as seen in the photo in this post, (peppers, zucchini, eggplant, artichokes, mushrooms, onion, etc.), we must cook them beforehand.
Kneading the pizza:
Dissolve 3-4 grams of dry yeast in 350 ml of warm water (the yeast is destroyed by excessive heat and is not activated at very low temperatures). It is possible to add a teaspoon of sugar or barley malt, which acts as food to enhance the action of the yeast.
Add 500 g of flour to a bowl and make a well in the center. Some people add a teaspoon of salt on the sides, others prefer to add it later. In both cases, the reason is to keep the salt away from the yeast, since their actions are antagonistic.
Add the liquid little by little and stir with a spoon. When the water has been completely absorbed, add a little olive oil and continue kneading with your hands.
When we have obtained a ball with a smooth and homogeneous texture, grease the bowl with a little more olive oil, place the dough and cover with plastic wrap or kitchen paper. This is always necessary to prevent contact with air from oxidizing the dough and forming a kind of crust on the surface.
Let it rise in a warm place in the house, and when the dough has doubled in volume, repeat the kneading for a few more minutes. Divide the dough into three equal parts, form each one into a ball and let them rest for at least 6 to 8 hours. If we want to prolong the fermentation even more, then keep it in the refrigerator. In any case, always remember to grease the container (so that the dough does not stick) and cover it with film (so that the surface does not rust).
The indicated measurements are enough for 3 pizzas. It is possible to freeze the dough if desired.
Baking the pizza:
The main reason why it is difficult to replicate restaurant pizzas at home is the oven. While home ovens reach temperatures of around 250 degrees, those in pizzerias can exceed 400. However, with the steps indicated here and also respecting everything described above, we can obtain very good results.
Start by preheating the oven to a very high temperature (around 250 degrees). For baking, we can use a lightly oiled pizza pan of about 28 cm in diameter or a tray with baking paper. To form the pizza, we can knead it on a lightly oiled or floured flat surface, or directly on the pan or tray.
In any case, flatten the dough bals by always pressing from the center towards the edges. Make sure the pizza is flat and regular in the center, so that it can bake evenly. Add two spoons of the crushed tomato in the center and spread it using circular movements with the back of the spoon, and without reaching the edges completely. Add dried oregano and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to taste. Important: do not add the cheese at this time, as it will burn before the pizza is baked.
Bake at low height in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, so that the bottom of the pizza browns. Remove from the oven and if we are happy with the color of the dough, then add some basil leaves, the mozzarella and the grated cheese on top. Return to the oven, this time on a medium-high setting for an additional 4-5 minutes, until the cheese has completely melted. Extend the baking time for a few additional minutes, if you prefer a more golden color.
The times indicated are approximate, and you must adjust them according to the power and performance of your home oven. It is now up to you to experiment and have fun baking all kinds of pizzas!