How to make traditional Genovese pesto (basil pesto)

Basil pesto, or Genovese pesto, one of the most famous sauces in the world, is a creamy emulsion of basil, Parmesan cheese, pine nuts, garlic, and extra virgin olive oil. All the ingredients are typical from the coastal Liguria region of Italy, the birthplace of this recipe.

The difference between commercial pesto, quick homemade pesto, and the authentic traditional basil pesto

As with most industrially produced foods, the majority of commercial jars of pesto are made with sunflower oil, a cheaper but clearly lower-quality substitute compared to the original recipe.

Simply blending the original ingredients at home already yields a far superior and more flavorful pesto. Not just because of the higher quality from using extra virgin olive oil, but also because the other ingredients reach their full potential when fresh. This homemade method, even if done with a food processor, is enough to make you stop buying industrial pesto jars altogether.

However, to truly experience the authentic aroma and flavor of Genovese pesto, we need to prepare it the traditional way: using a mortar and pestle.

The secrets of traditional basil pesto from Genova

The word pesto comes from the Italian verb pestare, which means to crush. And to pestare as tradition requires, we must use a mortar. This method allows you to extract the essential oils and full aroma from each ingredient. The mortar should be made of marble, as it maintains a more constant temperature. In contrast, a food processor’s motor may slightly heat the delicate basil leaves, increasing the risk of oxidation.

The order in which the ingredients are crushed also holds its secrets. Start with the coarse salt (never fine table salt!), as its grains help create friction. Then add the garlic to start forming a paste, followed by the pine nuts. Next, gradually add the basil leaves, and finally the cheese and olive oil.

Lastly, we must use the mortar correctly. Contrary to popular belief, we shouldn’t pound the ingredients aggressively but rather make circular grinding motions with the pestle while slowly rotating the mortar with the other hand.

About the ingredients for traditional Genovese pesto:

1. As mentioned above, use coarse sea salt, never table salt.
2. The original recipe uses pine nuts. Some variations use almonds, but that’s purely for cost reasons, as almonds are cheaper.
3. The typical olive oil from Liguria comes from Taggiasca olives, the original variety for this recipe. If substituting, choose a mild, non-dominant olive oil for a similar effect.
4. The best basil leaves are small and young. Once the plant has flowered, the leaves can become somewhat bitter.
5. Do not boil the garlic beforehand, as this would strip it of its essential qualities. Simply remove the inner germ before crushing it. The garlic from the Vessalico region is the original choice for this recipe and is generally less intense and pungent.
6. Parmesan cheese is typically complemented with some Pecorino cheese, which is saltier and has a stronger flavor than Parmesan alone.

Method for making traditional basil pesto:

Start by putting the coarse salt into the mortar. Add the garlic and begin making circular movements with the pestle, rotating the mortar with your other hand. Once a paste begins to form, add the pine nuts and continue grinding until the ingredients are well integrated.

Next, gradually add the basil leaves. Continue the same circular movements. A creamy texture will start to form as you add more leaves.

Finally, while still grinding, add the grated cheeses to the cream, and lastly, the extra virgin olive oil. The continuous circular motions will help incorporate the cheese and emulsify the oil into the creamy pesto.

Tips and tricks:

1. If you don’t plan to use all the pesto immediately, it’s a good idea to put it in a jar and cover the leftover pesto with a layer of extra virgin olive oil to prevent oxidation and inhibit mold growth.
2. This pesto may turn out too thick to add directly to pasta. Simply thin it with a bit of pasta cooking water, always off the heat, as pesto should never be cooked or heated.
3. This original recipe can also serve as a base to experiment with other variations, like this delicious pesto rosso with sun-dried tomatoes.