The famous Madrid stew: Cocido madrileño

A cocido is basically a meat, vegetable and legume soup. There are numerous regional variants such as the Andalusian puchero, the Galician cocido or even the curious “rotten pot” (olla podrida) from Burgos, each with its own particular characteristics. Here all the secrets of the perhaps most emblematic dish of Madrid’s gastronomy, so that you can prepare it according to your taste and availability of ingredients.

Some preliminary considerations:

As in the Argentine puchero recipe, the most important secret is to follow the steps considering the cooking time of each ingredient. And it’s also essential to remove from the broth the foam that appears on the surface of the pot, after it comes to a boil. That foam is formed by impurities that are detached from the meat.

There are as many versions of these traditional recipes as families and restaurants that prepare them. Here, not only the cooking process of my version is detailed, but I also indicate some alternative ingredients to use, according to preference and/or availability.

It is a good idea to prepare the cocido the day before. The flavors settle and the stew keeps perfectly in the fridge for 2 or 3 days. In addition, the fats in the broth solidify in the cold after a day of rest, making it very easy to get rid of them.

What meat to choose for Madrid cocido:

The shank is the part of the cow’s leg, with or without bone. It’s an ideal cut for this type of recipe, since it requires prolonged cooking, after which it gets very tender and tasty. It’s possible to replace it with “ossobuco”, which is usually sold sliced ​​with the bone in the center. During my stay in Buenos Aires, I have also used roast beef, a very nice cut that becomes very tender in stews.

A pig’s leg would be an equivalent cut to the mentioned shank. You can also use the whole knuckle or “jamboneau”.

The beef bones and the tip of ham are simply added to give more flavor to the broth. A ham bone can also be used.

Although it is not very “academic”, I have sometimes replaced the bacon with a smoked pork brisket tip. Its lengthwise cut gives it a similar appearance, but it has more meat and less fat.

Any available chicken parts will do. I prefer the hindquarters in the soup because they are juicier than the breast, and I cook them without the skin.

The steps for the preparation of a cocido madrileño:

Leave the chickpeas to soak the night before, always out of the fridge. Use a large container and add a sufficient amount of water, since they will more than double the volume when hydrated. The next day, discard the water and rinse them with clean water.

In a large pot, put the shank, the bacon, the beef bones, the knuckle and the tip of ham. Cover with enough cold water and start cooking over high heat. When the water is lukewarm, add the chickpeas. They are usually boiled inside a cooking net. In this way, it will be very easy to recover them later, and it also prevents them from being crushed. But this is not an essential requirement.

When the broth begins to boil, lower the heat, ensuring that a constant boil is maintained. Remove any impurities that appear on the surface. The ingredients must always be covered with water, and if necessary add boiling water. Do not add cold water, as this can “stuck” the cooking of the chickpeas, after which they won’t become tender.

An hour after adding the chickpeas, it’s time to add the chicken, ideally without skin. And in the last 20 minutes of cooking, add the vegetables, cut into rather large pieces (in my case, carrot, potato and leek).

Correct the salt if necessary, although it’s probably not needed, since the bacon and ham provide the right amount.

Sometimes cabbage is usually included, which should be boiled separately, since otherwise its flavor can be very predominant in the broth. Once boiled, some people like to stir-fry it.

The chorizo ​​is boiled for about 20 minutes, and it’s important to do it in a separate pot. Otherwise, our broth would get all the fat that the sausages release during cooking. In the last 5 minutes heat briefly the blood sausage or “morcilla” together with the chorizo. The key point is not to boil it too much, to prevent it from falling apart.

How to serve the cocido madrileño:

Traditionally, this cocido is served in 3 batches or “vuelcos”.

The broth is served first, which is sometimes heated while cooking noodles or rice in it.

Secondly, the vegetables are served with the chickpeas, and finally the meat.

The dish is very filling and provides protein, fat and carbohydrates. Therefore, I believe that it does not require any additional accompaniment. Eventually it can be seasoned with a little extra virgin olive oil and a little smoked paprika.